Muttaikose Usli (Chopped Cabbage with Yellow Split Pea Sauce)

This recipe turned out to be both faster and more complicated than it looks on the page. Faster, because Ayer calls for gently soaking the split peas and chiles in hot water for hours, a process that can be greatly sped up by the use of boiling water; more complicated, because we didn't have a food processor, and while in many cases you can get away with using a blender, that's an approach this recipe strongly resisted.

For the sake of brevity in the body of the recipe itself, I've left that step as it was in the book. We don't have a food processor, and had to make do with an immersion blender; by putting the chana dal in a tall, narrow container and repeatedly pushing the blender down over it -- and adding about a third of a cup of water back in, which made me wish I'd reserved some of the water we'd softened it in -- we were eventually able to reduce it to the paste the recipe called for. (The added water didn't seem to hurt it any.)

If all you have is a stand blender, you're probably doomed.

One enduring mystery is the "yellow split pea sauce" mentioned in the title. While yellow split peas do feature in the recipe, it barely has any sauce at all, and the titular peas are used to make tasty, but solid, inclusions scattered throughout the curry.

Muttaikose Usli

660 Curries

Ingredients

• 1 C yellow split peas (chana dal)
• 4-6 dried red Thai, cayenne, or (for a milder curry) Kashmiri chiles, stems removed
• ½+½ tsp salt
• ½ tsp ground asafetida
• 2 tbsp corn oil
• 1 tsp black or yellow mustard seeds
• 1 tbsp skinned split black lentils (urad dal)
• 4 C finely chopped cabbage
• ½ tsp cayenne
• ¼ tsp turmeric
• 12-15 fresh curry leaves
• 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh cilantro

Directions

1. Put the chana dal in a medium-sized bowl. Cover with water and rinse by rubbing them through your fingers; drain.
2. Add the chiles and pour boiling water over the contents of the bowl until completely submerged. Cover and set aside for at least 20 minutes.
   (Now is a good time to prepare the cabbage and get the rest of your ingredients ready.)
3. Drain the chana dal and chiles. Place them in a food processor and process to form a slightly gritty paste. Return to the bowl and fold in the asafetida and half the salt.
4. Lightly grease a steamer basket (or line a bamboo steamer with waxed paper, then grease that). Spread the paste evenly into the basket and steam until a knife inserted into the center of the past comes out clean, 20-25 minutes. Remove the now solid paste disc and set aside to cool.
5. While the disc is cooling, heat the oil in a pot or deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds and cover until the seeds stop popping, ~30 seconds.
6. Add the lentils and stir-fry until they turn golden brown, 15-20 seconds.
7. Add the cabbage and continue to stir-fry to coat the leaves in the oil and soften them slightly, ~2 minutes.
8. Add the remaining salt, along with the cayenne, turmeric, and curry leaves. Stir them in and add 1 cup of water; remove from the heat and set aside.
9. Once the dal cake is cool to the touch, break it into ~pea-sized chunks. Stir them into the cabbage mixture and cook, covered, over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until most of the moisture has been absorbed, ~15 minutes.
10. Stir in the cilantro and serve.

Tayyar Shaadum (Rice with Yogurt and Mustard Seeds)

I was extremely dubious of adding yogurt to rice. Especially this much yogurt. I was sure I must've misread the recipe! But no, 1 c. of rice gets 2 cups of yogurt. Yogurt and toasted (but otherwise uncooked) lentils get added to rice along with chilies, mustard seeds, and a few other seasonings. Yogurt as a topping or the base of a curry sauce is one thing, but adding it to rice just seemed really weird to me. I was unconvinced.

I was wrong!

This was excellent. Especially when served with the simple tomato curry we made to top it. What a great combination! A hot vegetable-stuffed paratha completed the meal for me. Just goes to show... don't knock it 'til you've tried it!

Tayyar Shaadum

Slightly adapted from 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer

Ingredients

• 1 c. long-grain rice¹
• 2 c. plain yogurt
• 1 tsp. coarse sea salt
• 2 Tbsp. canola (or other neutral) oil
• 1 tsp. mustard seeds
• 1 Tbsp. skinned split black lentils (skinned split mapte beans/urad dal)
• 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
• 15 fresh or frozen curry leaves
• 3 fresh green Thai chilies, minced

Directions

1. Cook rice according to your preferred method.
2. Meanwhile, combine yogurt and salt.
3. Heat oil over medium-high heat.
4. Add mustard seeds, cover, and cook until they stop popping (30-60 seconds).
5. Add lentils and stir-fry until golden-brown (15-30 seconds).
6. Remove from heat and add cilantro, curry leaves, and chilies.
7. Add mustard seed mixture to the salted yogurt.
8. Once rice is done, stir in yogurt mixture.
9. Serve as a creamy base for any especially light and/or hot curries.

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¹ Iyer calls for (white) basmati rice, but I prefer brown for most things these days, so I just used a nice long-grain brown. ^Back

Tamatar chi Bhajee (Nutty-Hot Tomatoes with Garlic)

This curry isn't that substantial on its own, but it makes a decent dinner when served over Tayyar Shaadum, a yogurt-y rice that's almost a curry in its own right. The two go extremely well together and between the peanuts, lentils, and yogurt, have enough substance to them that they make a reasonable main course. Iyer suggests serving this with roti, but I quite like adding a vegetable-stuffed paratha to my plate.

Tamatar chi Bhajee

Slightly adapted from 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer

Ingredients

• 1/4 c. dry-roasted unsalted peanuts
• 4-5 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2 dried Thai, cayenne, or arbol chilies, stems removed
• 1 tsp. coarse sea salt
• 2 Tbsp. canola (or other neutral) oil
• 1 tsp. cumin seeds
• 450g diced tomatoes¹
• 1/4 c. chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 15 fresh or frozen curry leaves

Directions

1. Combine peanuts, garlic, chilies, and salt and grind/pound with a mortar and pestle² until it makes a sort of gritty, chunky, spicy peanut butter.
2. Heat the oil over medium heat (unless you already used it when blending the peanut mixture, in which case, skip this step).
3. Add the peanut mixture to the pan and stir-fry for a minute or so.
4. Add tomatoes, cilantro, sugar, and curry leaves.
5. If using fresh tomatoes, pour in half a cup of water. If using canned tomatoes, use some of their juice instead of the water.
6. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat slightly and continue to simmer (vigorously), uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 10-12 minutes.
7. Serve over Tayyar Shaadum with roti or (preferably vegetable- or paneer-stuffed) paratha.

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¹ If using fresh tomatoes, make sure they are very ripe and juicy. If you can't get really good fresh tomatoes, used canned instead. ^Back
2 If you don't have a large enough mortar and pestle, you'll have to improvise. I managed to (somewhat awkwardly) use my immersion blender to do this job. I ended up adding the oil to the peanut mixture to help it blend better. Maybe not an ideal solution, but it worked. ^Back

This is a lazy evening comfort food. It's cheap, filling, easy, and delicious. You can "upgrade" it — make the mac & cheese from scratch, say, swap out the spam for pancetta, etc — ­but this is the canonical recipe.

The correct boxed mac & cheese to make this with is PC brand White Cheddar. You can use Kraft Dinner but it's twice as expensive and less than half as tasty, so I don't recommend it. As for the spam, I'm partial to Mala Sichuan Peppercorn Spam, but really, any spam should work fine.

You can omit the grated cheddar if you don't have any to hand, but I find it adds a nice hit of extra cheesiness at the end.

It scales up well; if scaling down, you have to decide whether to have something twice as meaty as intended or have a leftover half-tin of spam.

Mac & Cheese with Broccoli and Spam

Ingredients

• 1 tin spam
• 1 tbsp bacon grease, or oil or butter if you don't have any lying around
• 2 boxes grocery store mac & cheese mix
• 1 large head broccoli, cut into florets
• ½ C (or more) freshly grated cheddar
• black pepper to taste

Directions

1. Detin spam and dice into small cubes.
2. Heat the grease (or oil) in a large, deep skillet or dutch oven over medium heat.
3. Add the spam and cook, turning occasionally, until browned and crispy.
4. While spam is cooking, boil pasta according to package. With ~1 minute left on the timer, add the broccoli florets. Ideally, time things so that the pasta is finishing up at the same time the spam does; if unsure, err on the side of the spam finishing early rather than the pasta.
5. Drain the pasta & broccoli; add to the skillet with the spam. Add the sauce mix and other necessary ingredients (typically butter + milk). Stir together with the spam until the sauce forms.
6. Add the cheese and continue mixing until the cheese melts. Season with generous amounts of black pepper.

Baingan Bharta (Grilled Eggplant Pate with Mango Powder)

This recipe came together fairly easily, with the exception of the blending of the spices; this is meant to be done in a food processor, but all we have is a blender, and it did not like that. Adding the tomatoes and eggplant juices pacified it, and the recipe here has been adjusted accordingly.

Baingan Bharta

660 Curries

Ingredients

• 1 large (~1.5lbs) eggplant
• 1 small red onion, coarsely chopped
• 6 large cloves garlic
• 2-4 fresh green Thai chilies, stems removed
• 1 C crushed tomatoes
• 4 tbsp finely chopped fresh cilantro
• 2 tbsp amchor
• ½ tsp salt
• ¼ tsp turmeric
• 2 tbsp ghee
• 1 tbsp toasted cumin-coriander blend

Directions

1. Prick the eggplant in multiple spots with a fork or knife. Don't bother to skin it or remove the stem.
2. Broil the eggplant, on high, about ~6" from the flames, turning periodically, until evenly charred, ~25 minutes.
3. Remove the eggplant from the broiler, put it in a bowl, and cover until it sweats and shrivels, ~15 minutes.
4. While the eggplant sweats, combine the onion, garlic, chiles, and tomato in a blender, and blend coarsely. If there isn't enough liquid for your blender, wait until after step 5.
5. Uncover the eggplant and peel the skin off; it should come off easily with just your hands. Retain any juices in the bowl; if you're having trouble blending, add them to the blender, otherwise just leave them in the bowl.
6. Return the now-peeled eggplant to the bowl and mash it well.
7. Stir in the onion-tomato mixture.
8. Add the mango powder, salt, turmeric, and half the cilantro. Mix thoroughly.
9. Preheat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ghee, and as soon it's melted, the eggplant mix.
10. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant loses some of its moisture and begins to cook down, ~15-20 minutes; then reduce heat to medium-low and continue to cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the oil starts to separate out, another ~10 minutes.
11. Remove from the heat. Stir in the cumin-coriander blend and remaining cilantro, and serve.

Chowli nu Dal (Cowpeas with Bishop's Weed and Toasted Chickpea Flour)

I spent ages looking for "red cowpeas" or "sabud chowli" at the various supermarkets and Indian grocery stores in town. I finally found them labeled as "chori". And, after some research, found out that they're the same thing as "adzuki" beans, which I was familiar with from several Japanese desserts and seem reasonably easy to come by in many Asian supermarkets.

Chowli nu Dal

Slightly adapted from 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer

Ingredients

• 3/4 c. red cowpeas (sabud chowli/chori/adzuki beans)
• 3 c. water
• 2 Tbsp. canola (or other neutral) oil
• 1 tsp. cumin seeds
• 1/2 tsp. bishop's weed
• 1/4 c. chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 tsp. coarse sea salt
• 1 tsp. coriander seeds, ground
• 1 tsp. ground Deggi chilies¹
• 1/4 c. Toasted Chickpea Flour
• 12-15 fresh or frozen curry leaves
• 2 tsp. sugar
• 1 Tbsp. ghee

Directions

1. Thoroughly rinse the cowpeas, then add hot water to cover and set aside for 1-2 hours.
2. Drain the cowpeas.
3. Add water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
4. Skim and discard any foam, lower the heat to medium, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20-25 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, heat oil over medium-high heat.
6. Add cumin and bishop's weed and sizzle for ~10 seconds.
7. Remove from heat and stir in cilantro, salt, coriander, and ground chilies.
8. Pour the oil-spice mixture into the cooked cowpeas.
9. Add the toasted chickpea flour and continue to simmer over medium heat, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for ~15 minutes.
10. Stir in the sugar and ghee and serve.

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¹ If you can't find Deggi chilies, then a 1:1 mix of cayenne and sweet paprika makes a good substitute. This is what I use. ^Back

Aloo Subzi (Potatoes with Ground Fenugreek)

I was very happy with how this curry came out. Possibly not the healthiest of choices with the large amount of oil, but a nice once-in-a-while treat.

Aloo Subzi

Slightly adapted from 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer

Ingredients

• 1/4 c. oil
• 1 tsp. mustard seeds
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 tsp. coarse sea salt
• 1 tsp. cumin seeds, ground
• 1 tsp. fenugreek seeds, ground
• 1/4 tsp. ground turmeric
• 3 fresh Thai chilies, chopped
• 450g russet (or other floury) potatoes, cut into 1cm cubes
• 1/2 c. water
• 1/4 c. chopped fresh cilantro
• 15-20 fresh or frozen curry leaves

Directions

1. Heat oil over medium-high heat.
2. Add mustard seeds, cover, and cook until they stop popping (30-60 seconds).
3. Add the onion, salt, cumin, fenugreek, turmeric, and chilies and stir-fry until onion is translucent (~2 minutes).
4. Add the potatoes, water, cilantro, and curry leaves and reduce heat to medium-low.
5. Cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender (~8 minutes).
6. Serve as is or with pooris, thinly sliced fresh chilies and/or red onion, and an extra sprinkle of coarse sea salt.

Menalina Saru (Peppery Pigeon Peas with Garlic and Cumin)

This is a fairly simple, slightly chunky pigeon pea dal. The black pepper and chilies add a pleasant kick to the dish and also help clear out the sinuses if you're suffering from a bit of a cold. According to Iyer, the recipe contributor's mother used to make this whenever a family member came down with a cold.

Menalina Saru

Slightly adapted from 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer

Ingredients

• 1 c. skinned split pigeon peas
• 3 c. water
• 2 large tomatoes, cored and cubed
• 1 Tbsp. cumin seeds, ground
• 2 tsp. black peppercorns, ground
• 1 tsp. coarse sea salt
• 2 Tbsp. garlic paste
• 2 Tbsp. ghee
• 3 dried arbol or Thai chilies
• 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro

Directions

1. Thoroughly rinse the peas.
2. Add to pot along with water and bring to a boil, uncovered, over medium-high heat. If the surface of the water becomes foamy, skim and discard the foam.
3. Add the tomatoes and reduce heat to medium-low.
4. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20-25 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, combine cumin, pepper, salt, and garlic paste and mix well.
6. Heat ghee over medium-high heat.
7. Add chilies and cook until slightly blackened (~1 minute).
8. Add the garlic paste mixture and stir-fry for another minute or two.
9. Once the peas are tender, add the chile mixture.
10. Scoop a spoonful or two of the liquid into the pan used to fry the paste and wash it out as best you can, returning the washings to the pot of peas.
11. Raise heat to medium-high and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
12. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve.

Chana Toor Dal Fry (Yellow Split and Pigeon Peas with Onion and Garlic)

This is so, so tasty! I just finished a big bowl of it and I'm thinking about going back for seconds.

As a meal, it's somewhat lacking in the vegetable department. But if you just need something warm and comforting to sit and enjoy, this dal is where it's at! And if you want to make a more balanced meal of it, I think a simple veggie-rich curry and maybe some vegetable-stuffed paratha would go very nicely.

I love how this came out. The pressure cooker gives the peas a wonderful creamy texture while the tomatoes add a fresh juiciness. And the huge quantity of garlic and generous helping of ghee don't hurt in the flavour department either! Definitely a welcome treat.

Chana Toor Dal Fry

Slightly adapted from 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer

Ingredients

• 1/2 c. yellow split peas
• 1/2 c. skinned split yellow pigeon peas
• 3 1/2 c. water, divided
• 1/4 c. ghee
• 1 tsp. mustard seeds
• 1 onion, halved and sliced thin
• 8 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 fresh green Thai chilies
• 1 tsp. coarse sea salt
• 1 tsp. cumin seeds, ground
• 1/2 tsp. fenugreek seeds, ground
• 1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
• 1 c. diced tomatoes
• 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro

Directions

1. Combine both kinds of peas and rinse them thoroughly.
2. Add to pressure cooker along with 3 c. water.
3. Cook on high pressure for 15 minutes and then allow the pressure to subside naturally for at least 15 minutes before opening the cooker.
4. Meanwhile, heat the ghee over medium-high heat.
5. Add the mustard seeds, cover, and cook until they stop popping (30-60 seconds).
6. Add onion, garlic, and chilies and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes.
7. Add salt, cumin, fenugreek, and turmeric and cook for another minute or so.
8. Add the tomato, cilantro, and remaining 1/2 c. water and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes.
9. Add the sauce to the legumes (or vice versa) and stir to combine.
10. Simmer, uncovered, over medium-low heat for 10 minutes.
11. Serve with whatever vegetable sides you prefer as well as flatbreads (naan or paratha work well), lime wedges, and/or hot pickles.

Chicoli

This recipe requires quite a lot of assembly. The curry itself has an ingredient list that takes up an entire page in the recipe book; while it comes together very quickly once you have everything ready, there is a lot of prep work involved just in getting all the ingredients out. Mise-en-place is highly recommended here.

On top of that, the whole-wheat ribbons are an entire separate recipe on their own and prep for them needs to start a few days in advance. You can skip them and just use whole wheat pasta -- Iyer recommends this if you don't have the time or ingredients to make them at home -- but you miss out on the pleasant spices built into the noodles. If you do want to use whole wheat pasta, coarsely break up some whole wheat fettucini, cook a cup of it al dente and add it to the curry at the end.

Chicoli (Ground Beef with Sweet Potato and Whole Wheat Ribbons)

Attribution

Ingredients

• For the whole-wheat ribbons
• ½ C roti flour
• 1 tsp coarse salt
• 1 tsp coriander seeds, ground
• ½ tsp cumin seeds, ground
• ½ tsp ground tumeric
• 1 tbsp canola oil
• ~¼ C plain yogurt, at room temperature, whisked
• For the curry
• 2 tbsp canola oil
• 3 tsp cumin seeds; 2 left whole, 1 ground
• 1 small red onion, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh ginger
• 3 to 5 fresh green Thai, cayenne, or serrano chiles, to taste, stems removed, finely chopped (do not remove the seeds)
• 3 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 lb lean ground beef
• 2 tsp coriander seeds, ground
• 1 tsp coarse kosher or sea salt
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 russet or Yukon Gold potato, peeled, cut into 1" cubes, and submerged
• 1 sweet potato, peeled, cut into 1": cubes, and submerged
• 1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1-inch lengths
• 1 small (~6") Japanese eggplant, stem removed, halved lengthwise and cut into 1" lengths
• 1 C 1" lengths of fresh green beans
• ½ C 1" cubes of fresh red pumpkin or acorn squash
• For finishing the curry
• 1 tbsp ghee
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• ½ tsp cayenne
• 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh cilantro

Directions

1. Whole-Wheat Ribbons
   The first five steps should be done 2-3 days in advance. The rest needs to happen concurrently with finishing the curry; make sure you read both recipes in full before starting to get the timing right.
1. Combine roti flour, salt, coriander, cumin, and turmeric in a medium-sized bowl.
2. Drizzle the oil over the flour mixture, and rub the flour through your hands to evenly coat it with the oil.
3. Add the yoghurt, a spoonful at a time, stirring until the flour comes together into a soft ball.
4. Pick up the ball, collect any dry flour left in the bowl, and gently knead it into a smooth, slightly stiff ball. If too wet, dust it with a little flour and knead it in.
5. Store the dough, covered, in the fridge, for 2-3 days. Take it back out and let it warm up to room temperature while you work on the rest of the curry.
6. Roll the dough out into a 12" log. Cut crosswise into ½" pieces and shape each piece into a ball. Set the balls aside, covered.
7. Fill a medium-sized pot with water and bring to a rolling boil.
8. Take the balls. Flatten each one out into a 3" disc (using the bottom of a drinking glass works well for this), slice into ¼" strips, and toss into the boiling water. Once the strips float to the top (3-5 minutes), skim them out and drop them in the curry. Repeat until all strips have been cooked.
2. Curry
1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat.
2. Add the whole cumin seeds and cook until they sizzle, turn reddish-brown, and are fragrant, ~10 seconds.
3. Add the onion, ginger, chiles, garlic, cinnamon sticks, and bay leaves. Stir-fry until the onion starts to brown, ~5 minutes.
4. Add the ground beef, breaking it up as needed, and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, ~10 minutes.
5. Drain the potatoes, reserving the potato water.
6. Add the ground coriander, the ground cumin, the salt, and the turmeric, and stir to coat the meat with the spices.
7. Add the potatoes, carrot, eggplant, beans, and squash. Add two cups of potato water; make up the difference with tapwater if needed.
8. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are fork-tender, ~10-15 minutes.
9. Add the whole-wheat ribbons.
3. Finishing
1. Heat the ghee in a small skillet over medium-high heat.
2. Add the cumin seeds and cook until reddish-brown and fragrant, ~10 seconds.
3. Remove from heat, stir in the cayenne, and immediately pour into the curry and stir briefly to combine.
4. Top with cilantro.