Pullum Parthicum (Parthian Chicken)

I quite enjoy a bit of historical cooking. Cooking in the Archives has been a lot of fun (even if I don't always agree with their interpretations). And I've quite liked some of the recipes from Shakespeare's Kitchen and Townsends as well.

Reiver was actually the one who originally put me onto Townsends. And now he's shared a few more of his favourite cooking channels. One of which is Max Miller's Tasting History. I'm not necessarily a huge fan of the videos I've watched on his channel, but Reiver has his cookbook and had pointed out that we had all the bits for this chicken recipe. And, unlike some of his other recipes, he actually seems to have a reasonable source for this one and hasn't been overly... "creative" in his interpretation of it.

This was quite a surprising recipe. It honestly didn't really grab me at first. It looked unusual, but not that exciting. But, I have to say, this turned out very nice in the end! I don't think it was quite a favourite for me, but it was nice.

I never would have thought of combining red wine and fish sauce, but the combination works surprisingly well! And the caraway, black pepper, celery, and asafetida is a somewhat bewildering -- but not unpleasant -- way to complete the flavours.

I think I might put somewhat less wine next time. I do feel like using a full cup was a bit heavy-handed and possibly excessive for a recipe that calls for "seasoning" with wine. But otherwise, I really can't complain or suggest any changes or alterations. This was actually quite lovely!

We served our Parthian chicken over a bit of saffron rice with a slice of buttered rye bread and some silverbeet gratin on the side. This turns out to have been an excellent (and fairly thematically appropriate) combination. Would definitely recommend!

Parthian Chicken: Open the chicken and quarter. Pound pepper, lovage, a little caraway, moisten with garum, season with wine. Arrange the chicken in an earthen dish and put the seasoning on top. Dissolve silpuium in warm water, and put it with the chicken and cook. Sprinkle with pepper and serve.
-- Apicus, De re coquinaria

Pullum Parthicum

Slightly adapted from Tasting History by Max Miller

Ingredients

• 1 whole chicken (~1.5kg)¹
• 3 Tbsp. fish sauce
• 2 Tbsp. fresh lovage or 1/4 c. celery leaves²
• 1/2 Tbsp. black peppercorns, ground
• 1/2 Tbsp. caraway seeds, ground
• 1/2 c. dry red wine
• 3/4 tsp. ground asafetida
• 1/4 c. warm water

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 230°C (450°F).
2. Quarter the chicken and place the pieces, skin-side-up, in a baking dish.
3. Combine the fish sauce, lovage (or celery), pepper, and caraway and mix well.
4. Stir in the wine.
5. Pour this mixture over the chicken. Try to distribute the spices as evenly as possible and press them into the chicken skin a little.
6. Stir the asafetia into the water and pour it over the chicken as well.
7. Roast at 230°C (450°F) until chicken is cooked through and meat registers ~74°C/165°F (~45 minutes).
8. Remove from oven and allow to rest for 10-15 minutes.
9. Serve drizzled with the sauce and extra black pepper.

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¹ Honestly, any skin-on, bone-in chicken pieces should work reasonably well for this. I actually ended up using a bunch of thighs for my rendition. ^Back
2 I used both the leaves and the ribs of the celery for my rendition and liked that quite a lot. I only used one rib this time around, but Reiver and I agreed that a bit more would have been even better. Personally, I would recommend 1/4 c. of leaves + 2 ribs of celery if going that route. ^Back

Feijoa season is in full swing and, in addition to just snacking on them daily, I've been trying to use some of them up in baking as well.

I've already made two huge apple-feijoa crumbles. They're great as a quick and easy dessert to use up large quantities of feijoa pulp. But I also didn't want to end up just making crumbles forever. So I went poking around the Internet looking for other recipe ideas. And boy-oh-boy, do I have a lot now! It was hard to decide where to start!

In the end, I opted for a feijoa custard tart. Mostly because Reiver really likes custard, so I figured that might be an agreeable way to use up a few feijoas.

The custard recipe called for egg yolks. I was going to just swap out the yolks for whole eggs, soas not to end up with surplus whites kicking around. But then I saw the note at the bottom suggesting that you use the surplus whites to make these chocloate-feijoa friands.

So, on the one hand, that meant committing to making two desserts tonight. But, on the other hand, it would neatly use up all of the eggs and let me use even more feijoas! And neither recipe looked terribly difficult or complicated to put together, so I figured I'd just go for it and make both of 'em.

I haven't had a chance to try the pie yet, but these friands were incredible! I wasn't entirely sold on chocolate friands. Classic friands are so good as is, I felt like adding chocolate and fruit could only possibly detract from them. But this combination really works! It's definitely quite different from a standard friand, but, I would argue, equally as good.

Chocolate-Feijoa Friands

Slightly adapted from NZ Woman's Weekly

Ingredients

• 5 large egg whites
• 120g ground almonds (almond flour/meal)
• 195g icing (powdered/confectioners') sugar
• 1/2 c. soft (plain/standard/cake) or gluten-free flour
• 20g cocoa powder
• 1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 200g butter, melted
• 9 small feijoas, halved and scooped

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 160°C (325°F) and grease a muffin tin (or two)¹.
2. Beat the egg whites slightly to break them up. (No need to beat until stiff; slightly foamy is fine.)
3. In a separate bowl, combine the almonds, sugar, and flour.
4. Sift in the cocoa and baking powder and mix well.
5. Add the dry ingredients to the egg whites and stir to mix.
6. Pour in the melted butter and stir until just combined.
7. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins. Don't fill them too full; ~2/3 full is plenty!
8. Press a feijoa half into the top of each friand.
9. Bake at 160°C (325°F) for 20-25 minutes.
10. Turn out onto wire rack to cool.

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¹ The recipe claims that this makes 12 friands, but I actually got 18 using standard 5-cm diameter muffin tins. Obviously the exact number you get will depend on the size of your tins and how full you fill them. I felt like 18 was pretty much perfect though. ^Back

It's feijoa season!

I'd never even heard of feijoas before coming to New Zealand. But they're apparently a big thing here. They're originally from South America and the fruit are quite prolific. Unfortunately, they don't keep or ship very well at all, but the trees grow quite well here. So, once the season rolls around, you start seeing them everywhere!

I tried a few fresh and they were quite good. But we've now got a glut of fruit. More than I'll be able to eat before they go off. So Reiver suggested an apple-feijoa crumble as a way to use up some of the excess fruit on hand. Especially since we also had some apples that needed to be used up as well.

He couldn't find his usual crumble recipe, so I just used the one from the Countdown website. I scaled back the sugar somewhat and slightly increased the proportion of apples. I think I ended up doing 1 1/2 c. of feijoa pulp and 4 small apples with 3 Tbsp. of sugar in the filling and 2/3 c. in the topping. And, while I'm happy with the results, I think that even more fruit and less sugar would have been better. The write-up below reflects this.

Photo goes here.

Apple-Feijoa Crumble

Adapted from Woolworths/Countdown

Ingredients

Topping

• 1 c. rolled (old-fashioned/whole grain) oats
• 1 c. plain or all-purpose flour
• 1/2 c. unsweetened shredded or flaked coconut (optional)
• 1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/2 Tbsp. ground ginger
• 1/2 c. brown sugar
• 120g salted butter, melted

Filling

• 2 c. feijoa pulp
• 5-6 apples, peeled and sliced
• 2 Tbsp. sugar
• 2 Tbsp. lemon juice

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 180°C (350°F).
2. Combine oats, flour, coconut (if using), cinnamon, and ginger and mix well.
3. Add brown sugar and stir to combine.
4. Pour in butter and mix well. Set aside.
5. Combine the feijoas, apples, sugar, and lemon juice and mix well.
6. Dump the fruit mixture into a 23x33cm (9x13") baking dish and spread into an even layer.
7. Sprinkle the topping over the fruit to cover the entire surface.
8. Bake at 180°C (350°F) for ~25 minutes.
9. Let stand at least 10 minutes before serving.
10. Serve with cream, whipped cream, or ice cream.

So, I found this recipe on the Internet. It claimed to be a 2-ingredient chocolate cake ready in the microwave in 90 seconds. I was dubious, but decided to give it a try anyway.

Unfortunately, recipe as written, it didn't really work.
Four tablespoons of Milo mixed with a tablespoon of milk just produces a thin layer of chocolate cement at the bottom of the mug when microwaved. It's not inedible, but it's not very good either.

For attempt #2, I doubled the recipe -- 1/2 c. of Milo and 2 Tbsp. of milk -- and also added 1/4 tsp. of baking powder because it seemed like it really wanted some leavener. I gave that 2 minutes in the microwave (checking it every 30 seconds or so) and that seemed to work much better!

Don't get me wrong, it's still not great, but it's a marked improvement over version 1. And not the worst thing in the world if you're craving a quick chocolate fix.

Milo Mug Cake

Adapted from Taste.com.au

Ingredients

• 1/2 c. Milo
• 1/4 tsp. baking powder
• 2 Tbsp. milk

Directions

1. Combine the Milo and baking powder in a mug.
2. Stir in the milk.
3. Microwave on high for 30 seconds.
4. Stir, then microwave for another 60-90 seconds, checking every 30 seconds or so.
5. Serve with fresh berries and/or ice cream.

Okay, so, I am apparently not entirely with it today and forgot the egg on my loco moco! Very sad. I mean, it was still tasty, but the egg is a key component and, when the dish is this simple, it makes me extra sad to have left it out. Whoops! My apologies for the goof. Definitely fry up an egg and add it if you're making this dish for yourself.

We had some leftover burger patties sitting in the fridge, so I didn't make the patties from scratch for this one. Go ahead and make patties according to your preferred recipe if you're doing this from scratch. But, otherwise, whatever you've got is fine. You'll miss out on some of the pan juices by cooking the burgers separately/ahead of time, but other than that, it's really not a problem.

Loco Moco

Slightly adapted from Ono Hawaii Recipes

Ingredients

• 2-3 burger patties
• 2 Tbsp. butter, divided
• 1 onion, halved and sliced
• handfull or two of sliced mushrooms (optional)
• 1 c. beef or chicken stock
• 1 Tbsp. soy sauce
• 1 Tbsp. tomato sauce/ketchup
• 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 Tbsp. cornstarch (cornflour)
• salt and pepper, to taste
• 2-3 eggs
• 1-1 1/2 c. cooked rice
• 1-2 green onions, chopped

Directions

1. If the burger patties are uncooked, fry them up in the pan first.
2. Once the patties are cooked through, remove from pan and set aside.
3. Melt 1 Tbsp. of the butter in the pan.
4. Add the onion and cook until softened.
5. Add the mushrooms (if using), cover, and cook until they release their liquid.
6. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered, for another 3-5 minutes.
7. Combine the stock, soy sauce, tomato sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and cornstarch and mix well.
8. Add it to the pan with the onion and cook until thickened.
9. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
10. Melt a little butter in a separate pan and fry the eggs until desired doneness.
11. Put ~1/2 c. of hot cooked rice in each bowl.
12. Top the rice with a burger patty and a generous quantity of the gravy and a fried egg.
13. Garnish with green onion and serve.

This worked out really well!

I'd never made a boiled pudding before. Or baked with suet. Lard, yes, but not suet. I'd used suet in cooking and making things like mincemeat. But I don't think I'd ever done a classic suet pudding before. So this was a bit of an experiment, but also a lot of fun.

I made this as a gluten-free, dairy-free clootie dumpling. I just used a commercial gluten-free flour mix and some rice-based GF breadcrumbs and then swapped in some oat milk for the cow's milk. The flour I used did have some vegetable gums added to try to compensate for the lack of gluten, but my dumpling was still somewhat lacking in structural integrity. I might try adding an extra egg next time, just to help bind it a little more. It was still delicious either way, it just didn't stay intact.

Clootie Dumpling

From BBC Good Food

Ingredients

• 175g fresh white breadcrumbs
• 175g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting
• 175g beef suet, grated/shredded
• 100g dark soft brown sugar
• ½ tsp salt
• 1 tsp mixed spice or pumpkin pie spice
• 2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp ground ginger
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 100g currants
• 175g sultanas
• 2 tbsp black treacle or golden syrup
• 150mL milk
• 1 large egg

Directions

1. Boil a pudding cloth for 15-20 minutes, then wring it out and dust it liberally with flour.
2. Tip the breadcrumbs, flour, suet, sugar, salt, baking soda, spices, and dried fruit into a large bowl and stir to mix.
3. Whisk the treacle or syrup into the milk and egg using a fork until well blended.
4. Stir the mixture into the dry ingredients with a fork or butter knife to make a soft dough.
5. Use the floured pudding cloth to line a large bowl and then press the dough into it to make a large, round ball.
6. Dust the top of the pudding with more flour and then bring the edges of the cloth up around the top of the pudding and tie it off, leaving enough room for some expansion.
7. Fill a large pot with water, place an upturned plate in it, and bring to a simmer.
8. Place your cloth-wrapped pudding into the simmering water, cover, and cook for 3 hours.
9. Preheat oven to 180°C (350°F).
10. Tip the pudding into a colander to drain, then carefully peel off the cloth.
11. Place the pudding on an ovenproof dish or baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes to dry it off and produce the classic skin.
12. Serve sliced with custard, cream, or ice cream—and a dram of whisky if you like.

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Variations

Gluten-Free, Dairy-Free Version

Ingredients

• 175g gluten-free breadcrumbs¹
• 175g gluten-free flour, plus extra for dusting
• 175g beef suet, grated/shredded
• 100g dark soft brown sugar
• 2 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 3/4 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp mixed spice or pumpkin pie spice
• 2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp ground ginger
• 100g currants
• 175g sultanas
• 2 tbsp black treacle or golden syrup
• 150mL oat milk (or non-dairy milk of your choice)
• 1-2 large eggs

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¹ As noted above, I used some dry, rice-based breadcumbs for my version in order to keep my dumpling gluten-free. This seemed to work fine. That said, I think I'd probably aim to get a loaf of GF bread next time and make my own fresh breadcrumbs. ^Back

Scottish food has the best names! Neeps (turnips), tatties (potatoes), clapshot (mashed neeps and tatties with chives), skirlie (suet-fried oats and onions)... the list goes on.

I was initially going to make some clapshot to go with the haggis, skirlie, and whiskey sauce for Reiver's birthday. But it ended up working out better to do a pot of plain mashed potatoes and then have the other veggies separate. At which point I figured it might be fun to just do up a few extra tatties, grab some cabbage, and turn it into rumbledethumps. (I mean, it's worth making for the name alone!)

Rumbledethumps

From BBC.co.uk

Ingredients

• 600g potatoes, peeled and cut into large pieces
• 400g turnips, peeled and cut into large pieces
• 75g butter, divided
• 250g cabbage (preferably savoy), sliced thin
• salt and pepper, to taste
• 25-50g cheddar cheese, grated

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 180°C (350°F) and grease a 23cm (9") square baking dish or other large casserole dish.
2. Place the potatoes and turnips in a pot with enough water to cover them and bring to a boil.
3. Cook until tender, then drain and return to the pot.
4. Meanwhile, melt 50g of the butter over medium heat.
5. Add the cabbage to the butter and cook until tender.
6. Add the cabbage and the remaining 25g of butter to the pot with the tubers and mash.
7. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
8. Transfer the mash to the prepared baking dish and top with cheese.
9. Bake at 180°C (350°F), covered, for 30 minutes.
10. Uncover and continue baking for another 15 minutes.